Santorini: Tomatokeftedes (Tomato Fritters)

Tomatokeftedes are one of those dishes you’ll only truly find in Santorini, and their story is as local as it gets.

They’re traditionally made with Santorini’s tiny, thick-skinned cherry tomatoes which have been growing on the island since the late 1800s. These little tomatoes thrive in the volcanic soil and the dramatic near-drought conditions, and they do this essentially by soaking up morning dew.

Back in the early 20th century, these tomatoes were a huge export, and therefore the island was also full of canneries. With their abundance these were also an easy and cheap way to cook up something filling during a time when meat was scarce and a delicacy. As such, these fritters became a common snack for farm workers and family tables. Even after the canneries disappeared and the tomato trade faded on the island (you can still see the remnants of the buildings today), the tomatokeftedes were here to stay.

I would have completely missed this if it was not for the recommendation of our boat captain on our lunch stop in one of the ports, but now it appears are one of the key recipes in our maze and summer repertoire.

Here is my recipe for this lovely dish, which you can pair very well with an Assyrtiko (island’s native grape) or a lovely rose from Estate Argyros.

 

What you’ll need

6 minim tomatoes

1 Red onion

Bunch of mint

Olive oil

Salt

Black pepper

White pepper

Paprika

Dill (dry works well)

Oregano (dry works well)

All-purpose flour

Oil for frying (olive oil is best, but vegetable will also do)

Tzatziki and fresh lemon wedges (for serving)

Step 1

Dice up all of your tomatoes.

 

Step 2

You guessed it - dice up your onion and mint, too

 

Step 3

Add your salt, black pepper, white pepper, paprika, dry dill and dry oregano. Mix everything up so it is evenly distributed.

 

Step 4

Once you have mixed everything, let it all sit for about 10 minutes.

The salt you have added will sweat the tomatoes and they will release their juices.

Add a dash of good olive oil and mix it all up.

 

Step 5

Adding in portions, dust your mixture with flour. You are making a bit of a batter with the moisture you have drawn out of the tomatoes and with the olive oil you have added.

Continue adding flour and mixing it evenly in until you have a uniform mass that you can easily form clumps from.

 

Step 6

Heat up your cooking oil in either a frying pan or in a sauce pot.

Here, I used a deep-frying method in a pot, but you can also easily make these in a frying pan, with enough oil to cover half of the fritter and then just flipping it over half way through.

Add your fritter balls to your hot oil once it is very hot and simmer them until they are a nice golden-brown colour.

Place the ready fritters onto a sheet of kitchen towel to absorb access oil before serving.

 

Step 7

Once they’re a bit cooled but still hot, place your fritters on a serving plate.

Dust them with some salt flakes and fresh black pepper and serve alongside tzatziki and fresh lemon wedges.

 

And now for the wine pairing!

I find these are gorgeous little treats that have a wonderful complexity to them, despite the few ingredients.

The fritters are vibrant and pack a punch with their flavor. A great compliment to them is an Assyrtiko from Santorini (Estate Argyros if you can get it), an Albarino (still wine; for example Waitrosse has a wonderful partnership with Bodegas La Val winery who make a lovely expression of this grape for them at a bargain) or a complex rose from either Santorini itself or perhaps a rose one from Southern Rhone (like the Les Cigalières Tavel).

Most importantly - enjoy!